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Hooves on the Ground: Onion Valley to Sixty Lake Basin and Col
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Hooves on the Ground: Grand Canyon's Clear Creek Trail and Cheyava Falls
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Hooves on the Ground: Miter Basin
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Hooves on the Ground: Tyee/Midnight/Hungry Packer Lakes, John Muir Wilderness
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Hooves on the Ground: Yosemite's Murphy Creek to Tuolumne Crest in the early season
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Hooves on the Ground: Grand Canyon's Tanner Trail and Escalante Route
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Hooves on the Ground: Mineral King Loop via Timber Gap and Lost Canyon
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Hooves on the Ground: Darwin, Evolution, and Piute Canyons via Lamarck Col and Piute Pass
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Hooves on the Ground: Darwin, Evolution, and Piute Canyons via Lamarck Col and Piute Pass
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Hooves on the Ground: Thousand Island Lake via Rush Creek
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Hooves on the Ground: Grand Canyon's Hermit-Boucher Loop
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Elements of Existence
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Spellbound | Wanderings Through the Witching Hour
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Hooves on the Ground: Yosemite's Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne and Old Big Oak Flat Road to El Capitan
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Psyche | Introspections In an Era of Uncertainty
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Hooves on the Ground: Death Valley Albatross Plane Crash Site
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Hooves on the Ground: High Sierra Trail
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Suspension
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Hooves on the Ground: Nepal
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Hooves on the Ground: Nepal
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Hooves on the Ground: Cottonwood Pass and Lakes Loop (Miter Basin and Mt. Langley)
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Hooves on the Ground: Cottonwood Pass and Lakes Loop (Miter Basin and Mt. Langley)
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The Troubles We Carry
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The Troubles We Carry
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Hooves on the Ground: South Lake to North Lake (Evolution Loop)
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Hooves on the Ground: South Lake to North Lake (Evolution Loop)
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Hooves on the Ground: Grand Canyon
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Wanderlust: Hiking on Legendary Trails
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Wanderlust: Hiking on Legendary Trails
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Hooves on the Ground: Perú
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Notorious/Glorious
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dearantler turns 3!
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Music Video for Sara Lov's 'Rain Up'
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Hooves on the Ground: The Palisades
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Hooves on the Ground: Tahoe to Yosemite Along the Pacific Crest Trail
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Strangers On A Trail
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Blue Lake at dusk following an afternoon rainstorm.

Hooves on the Ground: Tyee/Midnight/Hungry Packer Lakes, John Muir Wilderness

July 18, 2023

For years, we’ve celebrated J’s birthday with a Sierra backpacking trip. Almost every time, the longest and toughest climb inadvertently falls on his birthday. Case in point: summer 2017, when we found ourselves hiking up from the JMT to Piute Pass on his birthday after an epically wet winter, resulting in no less than a dozen significant and exhausting stream crossings on one day. That was just one example of a long string of birthdays spent trudging up to some elusive thin-aired destination.

We’ve tried to correct this by designing a more leisurely itinerary — at least for his actual birthday — but it appears we are not meant to embark on such walks in the park. Take the time in 2021, when rather than hike over Lamarck Col to base camp at Darwin Bench for a few days, we decided not to hike back out over Lamarck Col, instead changing our route, adding 25 or 30 miles, and replacing sluggishness with brisk exertion.

I dare say that in 2022 we accomplished our goal and achieved a low-milage, medium-effort, high-reward birthday trip. It went something like this…

We arrived a couple of days early to acclimatize to the higher elevations we’d encounter on this hike, camping a couple of nights in the Bishop Canyon area of the John Muir Wilderness and day hiking to the lovely Chocolate Lakes starting at South Lake and ascending toward Long Lake and Ruwau Lake. There were wildfires burning in the area and we were somewhat impacted by smoke on our day hike. Fortunately, by the time our backpacking trip started the smoke had shifted away from the area.

The backpacking route started at Tyee Lakes trailhead. From there, we hiked up to the largest of the namesake lakes, camping just above 11,000’.

On day 2, we hiked over Table Mountain to about 11,600’, soaking in absolutely jaw-dropping views of Evolution Valley before descending toward George Lake. From there, we followed the trail (almost) to Lake Sabrina, turning south toward Blue Lake, where we camped for two nights.

A carpet of lupine near Sailor Lake

On day 3, we headed up the middle fork of Bishop Creek and putzed around many beautiful mini lake basins under intermittent rain, visiting Midnight Lake, Hungry Packer Lake, and Sailor Lake — each with its own unique character and backdrop of scenery. In better weather we might have continued exploring the countless lakes and tarns that dot this landscape, accessed via endless out-and-backs or out-and-overs. Instead, we took this trip to be an appetizer for a future return visit.

On our final day, we hiked out to Lake Sabrina and hitchhiked back to our starting trailhead.

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 Table Mountain

Table Mountain

 Table Mountain

Table Mountain

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 Expansive views into Evolution Basin and Valley

Expansive views into Evolution Basin and Valley

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 Blue Lake

Blue Lake

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 Where’s Jolly? Napping under lightweight umbrellas in the hot afternoon sun

Where’s Jolly? Napping under lightweight umbrellas in the hot afternoon sun

 Crystal waters of Hungry Packer Lake

Crystal waters of Hungry Packer Lake

IMG_6435.jpg  Table Mountain  Table Mountain IMG_6387.jpg  Expansive views into Evolution Basin and Valley IMG_6396.jpg  Blue Lake IMG_6423.jpg IMG_6454.jpg IMG_6461.jpg  Where’s Jolly? Napping under lightweight umbrellas in the hot afternoon sun  Crystal waters of Hungry Packer Lake

Days: 4 (late July 2022)

Mileage: 22 mi.

Elevations: Tyee Lakes trailhead 9,112'; Table Mountain 11,588'; Lake Sabrina 9,060’. Total elevation gain 4,852’.

Camp locations: Tyee Lakes; Blue Lake.

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In Travel Tags Back, Sierra Nevada, Eastern Sierra, John Muir Wilderness, itinerary, trip report

Camping at Darwin Bench

Hooves on the Ground: Darwin, Evolution, and Piute Canyons via Lamarck Col and Piute Pass

September 12, 2021

As a buck, I don’t much understand what the big deal about birthdays is. The way I see it, every day spent on this earth is worth celebrating because it means I didn’t get eaten by a mountain lion or hit by a car while crossing the 405 freeway. But E+J have explained to me that for humans, celebrating yearly birthdays is an important tradition, and that’s why we generally find ourselves in the Sierra Nevada each July — to celebrate J’s birthday.

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In Travel Tags Sierra Nevada, Eastern Sierra, Evolution, Backpacking, wilderness, Inyo, John Muir Wilderness, Kings Canyon, trip report, itinerary

Wanda Lake (11,426'), still largely frozen in late July of this high snow year. Situated west of Muir Pass (11,955'), it is named for one of John Muir's two daughters. Helen Lake (11,617') sits on the east side of the pass and is named for Wanda's sister.

Hooves on the Ground: South Lake to North Lake (Evolution Loop)

August 4, 2017

If the John Muir Trail is the crown jewel of the Pacific Crest Trail, then the Evolution Basin and Valley are perhaps the most strikingly-sculpted gem to be carefully placed in that jewel. One bite of the Evolution area is liable to infect any passerby, causing even the most mileage-minded thru-hiker to slow down and soak in the absurdly stunning combinations of rock, water and sky.

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In Travel Tags Piute Pass, Sierra, John Muir Trail, Backpacking, Bishop, wilderness, Kings Canyon, Sierra Nevada, Eastern Sierra, Snow, John Muir Wilderness, Bishop Pass, Muir Pass, itinerary, trip report

Wanderlust: Hiking on Legendary Trails

June 29, 2017

We at dearantler are honored to have contributed to the newly-published book Wanderlust: Hiking on Legendary Trails. This beautiful coffee-table book is filled with inspiration and practical tips on hiking some of the world's most enchanting trails. The John Muir Trail chapter includes many of the photos and descriptions of our 2015 JMT trek. The book is published by Berlin-based Gestalten, which has published hundreds of books on art, architecture, design, photography and typography -- and we have been busy reading it to decide which treks to plan next!

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In Travel Tags John Muir Trail, Backpacking, Gestalten, Eastern Sierra, Sierra Nevada, Wanderlust, Sierra, California, John Muir Wilderness, Yosemite, Sequoia, Kings Canyon, Inyo, National Forest, national parks

Strangers On A Trail

July 9, 2016

Another year passes and we find ourselves at summer's doorstep once more. California is fortunate to have year-round access to the outdoors -- but even in the land of never-ending exploration opportunities, summer affords special access to some of the most incredible places this state has on offer. Among these are the Sierra Nevada Mountains -- the Range of Light, as John Muir called it. At 400 miles long -- from Tehachapi Pass in Kern County, to Fredonyer Pass in Lassen County -- the Sierra is home to three national parks (Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon), 20 wilderness areas, and many other iconic features, including Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney. 

Many consider the John Muir Trail to be the crown jewel of this spectacular mountain range. Even a well-traveled buck like me would be hard pressed to find a land to match its awe-inspiring magnificence. And so, with summer here once again, we pay homage to this stunning 220-mile ribbon of trail in the hopes of inspiring others to breathe its therapeutic air, see its exhilirating sites and feel its recuperative effects. 

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In Art Tags Eastern Sierra, John Muir Trail, John Muir Wilderness, Yosemite, Kings Canyon, hiking, Backpacking, Thru-hiking, Art, Photography, painting, mixed media, camping, Mount Whitney
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Hooves on the Ground: John Muir Trail

November 6, 2015

Around Thanksgiving 2014 Edith + Jolly's friends, Kelley and Peter, casually threw out an idea: to hike the John Muir Trail. The JMT travels 220 miles through some of the most rugged and stunning mountain scenery in the world, gaining and losing some 50,000 feet of elevation from iconic Yosemite Valley to the top of Mt. Whitney, the highest point in the contiguous US (see previous Hooves on the Ground posts about exploring the Yosemite high country and Mt. Whitney). The JMT shares most of its route with the Pacific Crest Trail and is widely considered to be the most demanding and scenic portion of that much longer trail.

E+J were more than intrigued: they were up for the challenge. Months of preparation ensued. Permits were secured. Books were read. Maps were studied. The vast resources of the interweb were consulted. Gear was upgraded. Calories were counted. Resupply packages were assembled. Routes were planned. Bodies were trained. Minds were prepared.

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In Travel Tags Backpacking, Thru-hiking, John Muir Trail, Yosemite, Eastern Sierra, Sierra Nevada, Kings Canyon, Sequoia, John Muir Wilderness, Mount Whitney, Mountains, Ansel Adams Wilderness, Inyo, Sierra, Hooves on the Ground, trip report, itinerary
2 Comments
Dear Antlerby Jedediah Cornelius Antler"The buck stops here."The advice and musings of the swankiest eight-point buck you'll ever meet.

Dear Antler

by Jedediah Cornelius Antler

"The buck stops here."

The advice and musings of the swankiest eight-point buck you'll ever meet.


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blog
Hooves on the Ground: Onion Valley to Sixty Lake Basin and Col
about 9 months ago
Hooves on the Ground: Grand Canyon's Clear Creek Trail and Cheyava Falls
about a year ago
Hooves on the Ground: Miter Basin
about a year ago
Hooves on the Ground: Tyee/Midnight/Hungry Packer Lakes, John Muir Wilderness
about a year ago
Hooves on the Ground: Yosemite's Murphy Creek to Tuolumne Crest in the early season
about a year ago
Hooves on the Ground: Grand Canyon's Tanner Trail and Escalante Route
about 2 years ago
Hooves on the Ground: Mineral King Loop via Timber Gap and Lost Canyon
about 2 years ago
Hooves on the Ground: Darwin, Evolution, and Piute Canyons via Lamarck Col and Piute Pass
about 3 years ago
Hooves on the Ground: Thousand Island Lake via Rush Creek
about 3 years ago
Hooves on the Ground: Grand Canyon's Hermit-Boucher Loop
about 4 years ago
Elements of Existence
about 4 years ago
Spellbound | Wanderings Through the Witching Hour
about 4 years ago
Hooves on the Ground: Yosemite's Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne and Old Big Oak Flat Road to El Capitan
about 4 years ago
Psyche | Introspections In an Era of Uncertainty
about 4 years ago
Hooves on the Ground: Death Valley Albatross Plane Crash Site
about 5 years ago
Hooves on the Ground: High Sierra Trail
about 5 years ago
Suspension
about 6 years ago
Hooves on the Ground: Nepal
about 6 years ago
Hooves on the Ground: Cottonwood Pass and Lakes Loop (Miter Basin and Mt. Langley)
about 6 years ago
The Troubles We Carry
about 7 years ago

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